about 5 years ago

從大阪到鳴門,開車大約要兩小時的路程。但這其中最讓我吃驚的不是我們竟然沒有迷路就到了鳴門(其實路是真的很簡單,而且車上又有 GPS),而是 ---- 天殺的過路費啊!!!我本來以為阪神高速的 900 日圓料金已經很可觀了(因為,我在舊金山過 I-80 bridge 一次最多只要 6 美金耶!這樣大概 600 日圓,我都呱呱叫了)沒想到跟淡路島的通路費比起來是小巫見大巫。一天這樣來回的過路費總共是....嚇!一萬日幣!嘿,算了,如果搭大眾交通工具的話會慢很多(google map 是說四小時,又一堆轉車),所以我就認命了。

This turned out to be a day of paying tolls.

I thought the Osaka-Kobe tolls were mighty, apparently the Naruto-Awaji line is the real killer. From Osaka to Naruto and back, the toll today totaled 100 USD. Wow. But I guess I had no alternative. Google map shows that if I had taken the JR line, it would've taken me 4-5 hours each way with close to 90 USD per person in train fare. This was a 2 hour each way drive with pleasant views.

淡路島的南端便是鳴門海峡。說到鳴門(ナルト)就不自禁會想到 --- 火影忍者!(日文漫畫名也是ナルト)

South of 淡路島 (Awajishima) lies the Naruto strait (鳴門海峡). If you're thinking that sounds awfully similar an anime, you guessed right.

雖說我已經很久不追火影了(當年我還在師大夜市鬼混的時候才剛開連載,老娘都成家立業了還沒出完啊!雖然說是比那個慎終追遠的五星物語要有誠意多了,可是出那麼快的結果就是我懶得追進度...),但還是會有點好奇:漩渦鳴人的名字由來,難道就是因為鳴門有名的漩渦嗎?(謎底請見本文底分宅線)

ナルト (Naruto) the mange/anime's main character is 渦巻きナルト (Uzumaki Naruto), which means Whirpool Naruto. And what is Naruto most famous for? Why, whirlpool!*(see end of post)

是的,我們開了兩個小時付了一堆過路費的目的就是來看漩渦。漩渦發生地就那麼一個,在鳴門大橋橋下,內海與太平洋交會處。但觀賞方式有兩個:想要近看,就要付錢坐船到漩渦旁邊看(為時 25 min,我坐小艇一人 2200 日圓)。

This was what we drove down all the way to see. You can catch a boat that will take you under the Naruto Bridge during high/low tides to see the whirlpools. The whirlpools form due to water level differences between the inland sea and the Pacific ocean. It is most prominent during full moon and new moon, and supposedly best around Mar-Apr. While we did not see whirlpools as big as the one seen on postcards, this was already a sight to behold.

第二個方式則是走到大橋底下的特別步道『渦の道』。入場費一人五百日圓。在這邊離漩渦就比較遠,而且視線會受到橋樑阻礙,但相反的,比較可以遠眺整個海峽風景。

漩渦之所以會產生,是因為內海入灣處水位高低差所致。每天在漲潮跟退潮巔峰時是觀賞最佳時間。事實上,船也都只開那其中的其後一兩個小時而已,之後也沒啥好看的。我們運氣還不錯,開車到搭船處時正好碰上當天的觀賞時間點,而且看完出來之後還可以快速開到渦の道(開車 5 min)再去彌補風景。

An alternative to taking the boat is to go under the Naruto bridge to observe the whirlpools from above. The place is called 渦の道 (Uzu no Michi). We went there after the boat ride, and it was clearly not as good of a viewing point. There's too much of the bridge structures in the way.

在渦の道,倒是見到了這艘氣宇不凡的船。

While at Uzu no Michi, I did however see this awesome boat:

我注意到這船是因為它顯然有風帆,但並沒有使用。所以它是帆船!這是很難得的。我記下了船名『日本丸』,回來一查,原來還是來頭不小的船 --- 初代日本丸於 1930 在神戶首航,原為帆船訓練所造,在二戰及韓戰期間曾作為貨運船使用。其美麗的白帆及優雅的船身讓它搏得了『海上的貴婦』和『太平洋的白鳥』之美名。現今所見的日本丸是二代,似乎仍然可作帆船駕駛訓練用。

It caught my eye because it was a motor boat with sails! The sails weren't down so it had to be also runnable on motor engines. I remembered the name "日本丸" and looked it up later. Hmm, apparently it's a famous boat! According to wiki, the original Nipponmaru was built in 1930 in Kobe. It was originally built for sail training, and participated in WWII and the Korean war as a cargo ship. It retired in 1984 and was succeeded by the new Nipponmaru.

It's definitely a beautiful ship. It seemed like it mostly had tourists on it though?

午餐是在依然可眺望到大橋以及漩渦的觀光餐廳『うずしお』用餐(真的是要把漩渦的景點利用價值發揮到極致咩)。在這裡我點了淡路牛丼。

Lunch took place at the edge of the Naruto bridge. In an effort to maximize the tourability of the Naruto whirlpool, there is a shop/restaurant called "Uzushio" (Whirlpool) that overlooks the Naruto bridge and serves delicious Awaji beef don.

菜單特地強調牛丼使用的牛肉,洋蔥,和米都是淡路自產!淡路這一帶洋蔥挺有名的樣子,餐廳外的土產店裡面的洋蔥食品真是五花八門:洋蔥湯,高湯,乾果,美乃滋,應有盡有。

They emphasized that the beef, onion, and rice are all from Awaji. Apparently Awaji onion is a BIG thing here, because there is onion everything in the souvenir shop: onion soup, onion snack, onion jam, onion mayonnaise...

但我對洋蔥的興致遠不及我的下一個景點:淡路島牧場的鮮奶!

But I had my eyes set on another local specialty.

Milk!

對於在神戶失去一品牧場蛋糕機會始終耿耿於懷的我,堅持一定要去牧場喝牛奶。

Since missing out on Rokkosan pasture's cheesecake in Kobe, I made sure this time we visited Awaji's dairy farm for some delicious milk.

牧場不大,遊客也寥寥可數。這牧場看起來是以通路販售為主,觀光只是副業。進去之後問了阿婆哪裡有鮮奶,她指一指食堂旁邊的冷凍櫃,說『自己拿,喝到飽』。

The farm is very small and there were few tourists. The farm seems to focus more on selling its products than coming up with gimmicks to attract tourists (well they do still have pony rides tho). And what made me really happy was:

The milk was free and ALL YOU CAN DRINK!!!

炎炎夏日,冰涼新鮮的牛奶真是的超~好~喝!!可惜我吃牛丼吃撐了,不然絕對會灌掉一整瓶。

If I weren't full from lunch, I'd be downing an entire carton instead of two small cups.

啊啊,不知為何,今天總會想到動漫。說到牧場就想到最近在看的『銀の匙』。

This reminds me of this manga again.

這是鋼鍊作者的新連載。我追得很慢(才買第二集,哈哈,現在都出到第八還第九),但看得很高興。我一直很喜歡荒川弘的幽默感。就連鋼鍊那麼沈重的題材她有時候都還是畫得很好笑。

I have vol. 1 and I should definitely get the later ones. It's by the manga artist who did Full Metal Alchemist. I've always loved her style. You feel positive and animal-loving after reading it :)

本日最後一站:安藤忠雄的夢舞台。

Our last stop is Awaji's 夢舞台 (Yumebutai, i.e. "Dream Stage"). Apparently this is the work of a famous Japanese architect 安藤忠雄 (Ando Tadao).

一開始我對一貫水泥色的建築感到索然無味。我是華麗派的嘛。但走著走著,就算是個建築的門外漢,我也漸漸看出了安藤設計的獨到之處。

At first I wasn't very attracted to seeing buildings built entirely out of concrete. I am at heart a classical architecture person (=lots of flowers and angels on pillars). By it started to grow on me as I walked through winding staircases and buildings without doors.

怎麼說呢,夢舞台整個設計,是一體的。沒有多餘的東西,沒有先建了什麼之後才事後想到添加的。而且最強烈的感覺是空間 -- 正因為建材本身相當樸素無華,更顯得出階梯,牆,迴廊,與水所共造出來的世界。

夢舞台裡的兩個天然元素,一是水。

另一個則是草木。剩下的,就是淡路自身的天與海。

There is an uniqueness to the how the space is designed. In fact, the lack of decor made space the only thing that mattered. Well, space, and streams of water and patches of exotic flowers.

點綴這如日本俳句一般簡約但深奧的夢舞台的,是旅館裡的海之教會。沒有吹笛的天使,也沒有雕金的棟梁。安藤想像中的海底的神聖婚禮唯一的色彩,是深海幽靜的藍。

The crown jewel in Ando's masterpiece is the Sea Chapel (海の教会). This is definitely not your usual wedding place.

這一日的淡路之旅,就到此畫下句點。

We conclude the day by driving back to Osaka while the sun sets over Awaji island. There was no dinner. I'm still full from the beef don and milk.

=========================== BEGIN OTAKU LINE =============================
=========================== 說好的分宅線 =============================

嗯,那麼,就來解火影命名之謎吧!根據維其百科,主角鳴人的名字是三忍之一的自來也取的:

In the true Otaku spirit, I searched online to confirm that ナルト's name really came from Naruto Whirlpool.

According to wiki, the name was given by 自来也(Jiraiya):

"[ナルト] 名前の由来は、自来也の小説『ド根性忍伝』の主人公。自来也は「ラーメンを食べながら考えた適当な名前」と流石に諭すも、ミナトとクシナ両名の強い希望により付けられる。"

自來也給主角取的名字來自他寫的小說『ド根性忍伝』的主人公,其寄託之意在『希望他擁有一顆堅忍不拔的心』。而為啥小說主人公叫鳴人?

Naruto was the name of the protagonist in Jiraiya's novel ド根性忍伝 (Dokonjo Ninden). He gave the baby the name Naruto so that "He would have a strong heart that would never give up."

But how did the name Naruto come about in the first place?

這個嘛,根據此部落格,自來也在寫書的時候正在吃拉麵。而拉麵裡面正好漂著:噹噹!漩渦狀魚板,日文名為鳴門巻き

According to this blogpost, when Jiraiya was writing the book, he was eating ramen which had this in it:

This is called --- surprise, 鳴門巻き (narutomaki)!

In case you have never had this (shame if you didn't! It's also a common ingredient in hot pot/shabu shabu), it's made from fish paste, and is usually sold in a roll form where you slice it into thin pieces.

而這魚板正是因為很像鳴門海峡的漩渦而得名。

Because the pink whirlpool reminds people of the Naruto Whirlpool,

"鳴門海峡の渦潮にちなんで名付けられたといわれている" --- wikipedia

這麼一來就解釋的通了!魚板從漩渦得名,小說主人公從魚板得名,九尾之子從小說得名,漫畫名字也沿用!大概~就是這樣。

So, it all comes back in a circle. Narutomaki is named after the Naturo Whirpool, the protagonist in Dokonjo Ninden is named after the narutomaki, the baby was named after the novel, and the manga is named after the baby. Full circle!!

在渦の道還看到火影的海報。好像是八月有什麼慶典活動。

The city of Naruto clearly knows how to capitalize on Naruto's fame. There is even a Naruto figure outside Uzu No Michi:

And according to the poster in the beginning of the post, there's going to be some kind of festival in August that celebrates the manga in Awaji.

嗯,宅完了。

Now excuse for I have to go cool off my otaku-ness with some....manga reading!!!!!!!!

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