almost 5 years ago

從大阪到京都比預想中的容易。轉車兩趟,四十五分鐘後,我抵達了睽違六年的古城京都。

It was easier than expected to get from Osaka to Kyoto. Two effortless transfers and 45 minutes later, I returned to Kyoto, having last visited 6 years ago.

此番遊京,與前回不同,目的明確:追尋新選組的歷史遺跡!然則,新選組在京都所遺下的,許多只是個極淡的影子。

This time I came with a specific agenda: to follow the footsteps of 新選組 (Shinsengumi). With what little is left of them, it was mostly chasing shadows.

這是因為在明治維新的動亂之後,沒有太多人想要特地去保存他們的存在。身為幕府的保衛者,他們在維新之後被貼上賊軍、殺人者的標籤。對許多人來說,新選組代表著他們亟欲拋棄的腐舊過往。等到歷史學家及小說家向世人重新翻定他們的評價,已是近半個世紀以後了。先是子母澤寬的『新選組始末記』,再來司馬遼太郎的『新選組血風録』 及『燃燒吧剣』被廣泛翻拍成電影及電視劇。突然之間,新選組的各個人物被賦予了新的英雄般的色彩:象徵著最後武士之魂的鬼之副長土方歲三;悲劇的天才劍士沖田總司;在油小路事件最後被自己前任同袍斬殺的第八隊隊長藤堂平助。

No one cared about preserving their brief existence in Kyoto after the turmoil of the Meiji revolution (明治維新). As they were guards to the collpased Shogun regime, they were considered traitors, merciless killers, and an unwanted reminder of the past. It took another four decades for historians to shed positive light on them. First came 子母澤寛's 新選組始末記, then there was 司馬遼太郎's 『新選組血風録』 and 『燃えよ剣』 which were adopted into TV dramas and movies. Then all of the sudden, the members of Shinsengumi were given heroic colors: 土方歳三 (Hijikata Toshizou), the last embodiment of the samurai spirit who ruled Shinsengumi with an iron fist and was nicknamed 鬼の副長 (Demon Vice-Commander); 沖田総司 (Okita Souji), the genius swordsman whose life was tragically cut short by tuberculosis; 藤堂平助 (Todou Hesuke), the young fearless captain of the 8th unit who later was killed by his own old companions from Shinsengumi in the famous 油小路事件 (Aburakoji affair).

近年來,動漫遊戲將新選組的名聲推廣更甚,即便是其描繪的人物已與史實有相當出入。

In more recent years, anime/manga/games have only made the characters even more popular, if not a little further away from historical facts. I won't deny that I started with manga/games and only then was I interested in reading the novels.

我的旅程就從此處開始。距今一百五十年前,在京都外圍的壬生的此處,新選組誕生。

The history of Shinsengumi begins in 壬生 (Mibu), in the outskirts of Kyoto, exactly 150 years ago (1863).

創組時人數只有十三人。且當時被稱作壬生浪士組。

It was at this place that the first 13 members of Shinsengumi were gathered. At that time, they were given the name 壬生浪士組 (Mibu Roshigumi).

浪士組當時的屯所是一名叫八木的鄉士的宅第。八木邸最出名的故事,就是局場芹沢鴨的暗殺。當時芹沢鴨越發目中無人,行事莽撞無謀,與實際的領袖近藤勇是一山不容二虎。

They lived in the house of a Mibu low-level samurai named 八木 (Yagi). The famous incident that happened here was the assassination of their own commander, 芹沢鴨 (Serizawa Kamo), who was behaving out of control and at odds with the real leader 近藤勇 (Kondo Isami).

坐在當年暗殺發生的房間內,我們聽著講古的阿伯敘說芹沢是如何在某一天晚上喝得爛醉如泥,和小妾阿梅共枕而眠。當日深夜,土方、沖田、原田等人衝進房間刺殺芹沢。饒是酒醉,芹沢還是即時醒了過來並試圖逃走,但最後還是為新選組所斬殺。和室的木樑上尚留著可能是當時留下的刀痕。

Sitting in the same room where the events took place, we listened to how Serizawa got madly drunk one night and fell asleep in the room with his mistress. Later in the night, several Shinsengumi members, including Hijikata, Harada, and Okita, charged in to kill him. Serizawa managed to wake up in time and fly to the adjacent room, but he was still eventually killed. Marks of sword fight, possibly from that evening, were carved into the ceiling wooden beams.

芹沢一死,近藤總算當上名副其實的局長。

With Serizawa dead, Kondo assumes leadership at Shinsengumi unopposed.

為了軟化氣氛,阿伯轉移話題,跟我們說了個豆知識:當時的日本人比現在矮許多。土方及沖田大概只有 160 cm,而向來被描寫成小小可愛的藤堂只有 152。芹沢則很高,有 188 cm,同樣的,原田據說也有 180。阿伯真是會破壞少女的綺麗懷想!(沖田在司馬僚太郎筆下可是純情美男子的)

To lighten up the gory tale, the guide proceeded to tell us: people back then were much shorter, Hijikata and Okita were believed to be only 160 cm (5"3') tall, and Todou was only 152 cm (4"12'; well he's always been protrayed as little and cute anyway). Serizawa stood at a towering 188 cm (6"2') and Harada was reportedly 5"11'. Thanks for ruining the ladies' fantasies, ojisan! =_=

今日的八木家開一家叫鶴屋的和果子店。我們的門票有付好吃的大福跟涼涼的抹茶。

The current day Yagi family runs a pastry shop, so I was happy to find that my ticket included a free bowl of cold matcha and red bean mochi.

距八木邸不過幾步路程,就是新選組最初作兵法訓練的壬生寺。

Only minutes away from the Yagi house is 壬生寺 (Mibu temple). This place was used by Shinsengumi for military drilling.

沖田就是在這裡和當地的小孩子玩(司馬遼太郎有訪問到小時候曾經跟沖田玩過的老婆婆)。新選組的人們,當時也一定經常欣賞此地出名的狂言。

It was here that Okita Souji was known to play with the local children and members of Shinsengumi enjoyed the famous Mibu Kyougen (壬生狂言).

池田屋及禁門之變後,新選組聲名大噪。新隊士蜂擁而來。他們不但想要沾一份名,也想要分一杯幕府賞金的羹。

After the famous Ikeda incident (池田屋事件) and Hamaguri Rebellion (禁門の変), Shinsengumi finds itself overflowing with members eager to join --- not only were they now famous (and notorious), the captains and high-ranking officers were becoming millionaires from all the reward money received from the Shogun.

隊士增加意味著八木家已經容不下他們了。於是我追尋新選組來到他們在京都最後一個現仍存在的屯所:西本願寺。

And so I follow Shinsengumi to their last traceable habitation in Kyoto: 西本願寺 (Nishihonganji).

西本願寺很大。在京都眾多的寺院中是數一數二的壯觀。新選組會想要搬到這裡是可想而知的:一來此處要更接近他們的轄區,二來可以驅走一些本來在西本願寺藏匿的一些長州浪士。

The temple is huge. Greater than most temples in Kyoto, it was certainly why Shinsengumi wanted to move here. Not only were they closer to their precinct, they also were eliminating threat from Choshu ronin who had been hiding out in Nishihonganji, likely with assistance from the monks.

在長廊上走著,我無法不去想像當年時什麼樣的情景。

I wonder what it must have felt like to live here...

然而,新選組在此處並沒有留下可見的足跡。他們作為屯所的太鼓樓,現今只是個倉庫。西本願寺本身要比新選組歷史更悠久,規模更巨大多了。

Nothing remains of Shinsengumi here. The taiko tower (太鼓楼) that they once lived in is now just a warehouse.

於是我的新選組之旅在西本願寺畫下暫時的句點。京都內其他殘餘的遺跡都只是石碑,實無太多可看之處。唯一例外者是...

With this, I end my Shisengumi pilgrimage for the day. The remaining related sites are merely stone monuments, with the exception of....

池田屋 (Ikeda ya)!

是的!就是池田屋事件的池田屋!池田屋不但店名尚存,現在還是個海鮮居酒屋。

Yes, Ikedaya of the Ikedaya Incident fame. Not only is the site is alive and well, it is now an Izakaya! And that means...

可想而知,我非得在這裡吃午餐!店內有許多新選組的動漫掛軸(有我在玩的薄櫻鬼,嘿嘿)。

Lunch!!! At the one place Shinsengumi made their fame by storming in with 30-40 men and killed/arrested important leaders/members of the conspiring Choshu and Satsuma activists. It was said that Shinsengumi alone with this feat "delayed the westernization of Japan by a year".

那麼,午餐的評價如何呢?嗯,就是個普通的居酒屋料理。我們點了生魚片,握壽司,豆腐,沙朗牛排,都滿普通的。但我還很高興來這裡吃了。

So how was actual lunch? Hmm, not bad. Your standard Izakaya food. We had sashimi, nigiri, agedashi tofu, sirloin steak...all pretty normal stuff. But I'm quite happy to have had the chance to dine here.

離開池田屋,我們順著四条通往八坂神社走去。

After Ikedaya, we walked on 四条通り (Shijodori) towards 八坂神社 (Yasaka Jinja).

京都的整個七月都是祇園祭。能夠一整個月不停歇的進行祭典,也只有京都才辦得到!

Oh yeah, the entire month of July is the 祇園祭り (Goin Festival)!! AN ENTIRE MONTH of festival. This is just crazy stuff only Kyoto can pull off.

可想而知,神社內人潮蜂擁。參拜者絡繹不絕。

Needless to say, the shrine was packed with people. There was a huge line to the altar:

到了神社我才發現原來円山公園跟知恩院就在隔壁。円山公園據說是賞櫻的一等地,不過現在時值夏天,有的只是樹蔭和鴿子。

What I did not know until I got there was that Yasaka Shrine is connected to 円山公園 (Maruyama park) and 知恩院 (Chion in). Maruyama park is supposedly the it place to go for cherry blossoms in the spring. For now, everything is lush green.

知恩院正在整修,可看之處不多。

A visit to Chion Temple next door was somewhat uneventful, as it is going through major reconstruction.

不過我倒是見識到了傳說中的"夜鶯啼鳴之廊"。這裡的走廊木板被設計成有人走上去時就會發出像夜鶯啼叫一樣的聲音。據說是為了防盜。

I did, however, learn the interesting trivia that the wooden floors of Chion Temple were made in such a way that it "squeaks like a nightengale" when stepped upon. Supposedly, this was to ward off intruders.

八坂神社出來,我們在鄰近的一家名叫祇園小石的店吃點心。,

We took a brief break outside Yasaka Shrine by going into a traditional Japanese sweets shop for some hardcore Kyoto delicacy!

通常我是見人潮就跑的,但這次我心甘情願的等了半個小時。

I usually don't like to wait in line. This time however, I was content to wait 30 min to get this:

只能說,老招牌的京都點心果然不一樣!團子極有嚼勁,我點的蜜柑冰是苦中但甜且有著果實的芳香,最後加上(應該是水羊羹吧)? 完全值回票價!

It was....the real thing. Everything. The texture of the rice balls, the exotic blend of summer mandarin's bitter sweetness with sweet matcha/brown sugar jelly....it was everything I had hoped for in a Gion dessert.

此刻外頭人是越來越多了。警察已經開始指揮交通,將此處規劃成人行步道區。

The streets were progressively getting packed by the time we came out. They were blocking the streets to turn part of Shijodori into a pedestrian-only zone.

處處可見燈籠高掛的漂亮山鉾。

Bright laterns begin to light up on lavishly decorated yamabokos (山鉾).

祭典嘛,不是看燈,就是看人。

Once again, this is a time to do people watching.

我們才剛從人潮中擠出去,準備搭車回大阪,天空就下起雨來。

We left just before the crowd got too insane and just as we left the pedestrian area, it began to rain.

希望這沒有掃了祭典的興。我只慶幸我自己逃掉了(笑)

抱著滿足,我離開了京都。但這不是永別,只是在下一次見面前的暫離。

Hmm, I hope it did not ruin the festival for the rest of the evening! I would not know, since I immediately hopped on a metro back to Osaka. I am content to leave Kyoto for now, but I know I will want to come back again.

← Day 10: Eat, drink, shop in Osaka 關西行程&情報1:大阪/高野山/神戶/淡路/鳴門 →